Korcula.  Were I a less lazy man, I would put the little hat on the ‘c’- it’s an affricate, but not the affricate that you think it is.  Well, you probably don’t think it’s an affricate, or don’t care, or like, whatever, but the point is that I am lazy and the ‘c’ should be wearing some sort of a hat.

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It’s kind of a big deal

Zadar is the cool surprisingly partying city we boated and bused into, which we then left to go to Split.  So we could take a ferry to the island that needs a hat.  So that’s what happened.  I mentioned earlier that there was a big festival going on in split- ULTRA- and that knowledge is very important in evaluating the city.  Basically, it was a terrible, terrible experience. A neat old town with the charm of Las Vegas (Side note: I hate Las Vegas and do not find it charming).  It was totally totally packed with people.  It’s like how I imagine those MTV spring break places are like in all the time the cameras aren’t rolling.

Here’s how much I didn’t like Split: Ever since I realized I was going to a town called Split, I had planned on taking a picture of a banana once I was there and coming up with something hilarious to say about it.  When I got to Split, I was in no mood for joking.  I just wanted to leave.  BUT, as I found out later, the festival drew approximately 5x as many people as as usually there in the high season, and it’s usually pretty busy in the high season.  So the point is that Split is probably pretty nice, but not when there’s a giant music festival.

So anyhow, enough negativity.  We actually had a pretty decent time there.  We got off our bus and fought through the crowds, but we successfully did all the errands we needed to do, including buying two days of groceries (peanut butter!) a new bathing suit, and.  um..  money, maybe?  I forget, but there was a third thing.  We did it all, then we got onto a boat and went to Korcula!

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In an orderly fashion

The ferry to Korcula, fwiw, wasn’t the big cool party ferry I was used to, but pretty much just a floating bus:

So we took a boat, maybe an hour and change, to Korcula, where our host met us at the port.  The house was a summer home for their family for years, but they decided recently to start renting it out and we were the first customers. The host was the older daughter of teh family, in her early 20s, I think, and she was pretty nervous about us liking the place and telling us all we had to know, and I think a little wary of the idea of strangers living in her family cottage.  Anyhow, she was great and went with us to the house to walk us through everything.

The house was awesome.  Not super elaborate, but clean and nice and with a view of the bay from the terrace.  (The really great shot that sold the house to us was actually taken from the path leading away from the house, not the terrace, but we brilliantly discovered that if we moved a table from the terrace to the path, then.  um..  we win.)

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Unbeatable

A little rocky beach was about a two minute walk away, which we took advantage of pretty much immediately.  The water was completely full of sea urchins, so bringing our water shoes proved crucial.  But the water was super duper clear and awesome and that’s pretty much that.  The next day we woke up, ate some some eggs and drank some instant coffee, and then went down to the beach and proceeded to swim and sun for the entire day.

Except not quite.  We were committed to spending our time there at the water, but the sky wasn’t cooperating.  It was a little drizzly and cloudy but not quite cold.  I spent a big chunk of time photographing the one patch of blue sky, trying to determine whether it was changing at all in size.  Eventually, we gave up on it being a sunny day at the beach and just decided to swim in cloudy drizzle.  Upon making this decision, the clouds parted and we were rewarded.

Tiny blue spot

Tiny blue spot

Less tiny blue spot

Less tiny blue spot

Ugh, tiny blue spot.

Ugh, tiny blue spot.

So once in the water, we could only float on our backs and swim in circles for so long, so we decided to swim across the bay to an island where we heard there was a church with a bell you could ring!  We love ringing bells!  So we made the swim, but we couldn’t find the church, so then we swam to another island, where we also couldn’t find the church.  There weren’t any other islands, so we never found the church, but it was still an awesome swim.  Also, we swam to two islands!   For real!

Anyhow, that pretty much wrapped it up.  It rained like crazy the next morning, so no more swimming, but I stood in the rain in my bathing suit, which is basically the same thing.  We considered staying for an extra few days, but Dubrovnik was calling us, and for all we knew, it could be way better than a secluded cottage on a crystal clear bay.  Right, that’s gonna happen.

 

I figured Zadar was a sleepy little port with two restaurants and a quaint old town area and that’s the ballgame.  I was way off.  It’s a party town with a bazillion restaurants and flashing lights and people selling things, etc, etc.  And if I hadn’t spent all day walking through an amazing forest with beautiful lakes and waterfalls, I might have bought a Zadar-related t-shirt and a little whiry-bird or maybe some local maraschino liqueur.  But last night I was tired.  Because seeing the most beautiful lakes and waterfalls you’ve ever seen can kinda take it out of you and make you not really impressed by parties and music and flashing lights, etc.
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Bright lights and electronic music in Zadar

Plitvice is really pretty.  The photos will speak for themselves, pretty much.  All I can comment on is that I’m sure it’s just as beautiful now as it was ten years ago or fifteen or a hundred years ago, but it’s also waaay more full of people.  Insane amounts of people.  We did a decent job lucking out and picking less popular trails and so occasionally found ourselves in relative quiet.  But man.  Sometimes there were a hundred yards of people walking single file at approximately exiting-a-movie-theater pace.  The falls would be worth it even if you had to walk two hours like that, but man.  It would be great place to rent out for the day to have for yourself.  But you couldn’t afford to do that, because tickets are like 40 bucks a person and there are thousands of people.
So we went back to Zadar.  And there was a party and a beautiful sunset and some great ruins of an old abbey or monastery or nunnery, I can’t quite recall.  And I had a dinner so garlicky I’m still tasting it 12 hours and two tooth-brushings later.  And tomorrow we’re going to Split and Korcula to just hang out by a beach, and it’s probably going to rain for two days straight.

That’s a stretch/groan of an allusion to tPB, jsyk.

Anyhow, we didn’t, you know, spend the entire time in Florence at the Uffizi.  We could have.  After we had decided we were all arted out for the afternoon and thought we had seen most of what we wanted to see, we still had to walk for ten minutes out of the museum, just glimpsing another 6-8 hours worth of colored oil & canvas.  But we were hungry.  So we ate pizza and drank peroni.

Snack time after a hard day's art viewing

Snack time after a hard day’s art viewing

Then we went and saw…  shoot, I don’t remember what it was called.  On our Florence map, our b&b hostess had helpfully labelled a large building tombs! which held the tombs of Galileo, Machiavelli, and Dante Alighieri.  Not the other Dante.  And  about ten thousand other folks.  Becca’s shorts were too scandalously short for the security guard, who instructed her to tie her cardigan around her legs, so that was pretty funny.
Next up was the Synagogue, which we had high hopes for because we had enjoyed the one in Siena so much.  It was nice, though we didn’t get a dedicated tour guide like in Siena.  I wasn’t wearing my hat this day, so I had to borrow a kippah.  First time for that.  They didn’t provide little clips, unfortunately, so I kept patting my head to make sure it was still on.  We were being followed pretty closely by one of the staff members, and I was pretty sure she wouldn’t be pleased if it fell off.  Nobody would have been pleased.  Anyhow, it didn’t fall off.  We couldn’t take any photos inside, but it was very pretty.  There was also a vegetarian restaurant next door, and in retrospect I can’t figure out why we didn’t eat there.  I haven’t had tofu in weeks!  Oh, probably just a week and a half, but still.
No photos allowed inside the grounds

No photos allowed inside the grounds

Um.  Man, I don’t have any interesting stories, so I’ll just summarize.  We got some coffee, walked to a big park on the other side of the river (there’s a river), took photos.  We spent 45 minutes trying to pick a place to have dinner, ultimately deciding on the first place we saw.  Then we had a digestif at an actually kinda sketchy place, then bedtime.  Doctor Zigler had an early morning presentation, which reportedly went well, so Becca and I feel like we can take some credit for putting him in the correct frame of mind..  or something.
The next day, we went to see the David, but the line was long and the museum was expensive.  Luckily, on the way there, we saw a store with five(!) Davids in the window- no wait and no admission.  So that was pretty much a better deal.  We did go up into the Duomo dome, which was amazing.  We were literally walking inside the dome!  So cool!
Three for one

Three for one

That was followed by wandering and photo taking and eating at the Italian Ruby Tuesdays.  (It had pictures on the menu AND advertised as being good for tour groups.  What were we thinking?)  Then it hailed.  Then we went to our hostel, got our stuff, were given a plastic bottle full of wine from the hostess, and took a train to Ancona, where we got on a ferry, said goodbye to Italy, and set “sail” to Croatia!
Oh, it doesn’t matter much, but we also met this American Dude who was heading to Split to go to ULTRA and he was amazed we hadn’t heard of it.  There’s also one in Ibiza and Miami and he couldn’t believe we hadn’t heard of them either.  So: ULTRA is an important thing and there’s probably a DJ named Apple Jack (?) who’s a pretty big deal.

Wednesday was spent mostly at the Uffizi.  No, that’s a lie, but we spent a lot of time there.  Including waiting in a long, slow line.  Apparently you really should take everyone’s advice and book early to cut down on waits.  We did not. We waited in a line.  But there was good company, so spending an hour chatting wasn’t so bad.
The museum is huge.  And awesome.  And totally full of people taking snapshots of famous works of art, myself being one of them.  We just think art is best experienced via blurry, low resolution photos on Facebook.  We are entitled to our opinions.
Birth of Venus was very well attended

Birth of Venus was very well attended

In accordance with the rights given to us to express our opinions w/r/t the appropriate way to experience art, there are plenty of blurry photos of famous works of art included below.   The most fun to see was easily the Birth of Venus, not only because it is awesome, and not only because there is a high relief sculpture of the painting designed to allow blind folks to experience it, and not only because of the giant crowd of people holding cell phones above their head trying to capture its beauty above the heads of other, similarly photographically innovative tourists, but also because I have a bit of personal history with the painting that just makes it a more meaningful experience for me than for probably anyone else.  The Birth of Venus got me in trouble in fifth grade.
 Okay, that’s definitely not really what happened.  What really happened is that I wore one of my brother’s t-shirts to school when I was in fifth grade.  On this shirt was a collage of images, artfully designed to express a visual aesthetic complementary to the music written and performed by the famous Texas rock band Sprawl.  One of these images was Venus in a half shell (Turtle Power!).  I can no longer remember the other components of the design, other than the band’s name across a corner of the image, but I do remember that the collage, with its whimsical mix of high-brow and low-brow images, dutifully reflected the various influences and styles that the band displayed in its music.  The inclusion of the famous image of Venus told the public that the band had studied- they knew their art and its role in the history of civilization.  Indeed, the Goddess of Love is an apt symbol for a band with an album named “The Deflorist.”  But they were not merely respectful students of the past- the off-kilter angle and the inclusion of other images showed how they took a variety of influences and points of view to create a unique approach to aural art.  By wearing the shirt, I aligned myself with the band and their vision, thereby standing in opposition to the mainstream.  That’s what it meant to me.
To my fifth-grade teacher, I was just wearing a shirt with a naked woman on it, and I could wear it inside out or cover it with masking tape.  Because Texas.
Here are some pictures, masking-tape free.

Lucca-t these photos!  Like, Look at these photos- they were taken (mostly) in Lucca!

I’m falling behind, as I do, but we’re just finishing breakfast so I figured I’d post some photos (out of order, alas).  Yesterday we left La Spezia and drove to Florence, stopping in Lucxca.  We didn’t intend to stay long, just enough to get lunch, but it ended up being a cool city.  We were remarking on how it seemed like a real city and how there was almost no tourist presence, which was odd.  Then we realized we just entered town from the non-tourist side- the closer we got to the center, the more gelaterias and tschotchkerias there were until it was a veritable Ocean City.  No, that’s rude.  It was nothing like Ocean City.

One unexpected stop was a Comics Museum, where we saw an exhibition on WW1 comics as well as a “Myth of the West” exhibit on Western comic art in Italy.  AND there was Spiderman on the outside.  Also had the best gelato of the trip from the coolest looking place- all the gelato was stored in shiny copper pots.  Very pretty.

We got into Florence, dropped off our “car”, and headed to our B&B, ehich was great.  Picnic dinner at some park, beer with Dr. Zigler who’s in Florence in his official capacity, and that’s the ballgame!

This post has been really hard to write. Mostly because I’ve been busy and there hasn’t been successful internet connections, but also because it was just hard to write about.  Because Cinque Terre is amazing, and because it was very nearly a terrible day.

It started off bad.  We woke up early to move our car to some free parking spaces our b&b host recommended.  When we found these spaces, they were all taken.  That’s a bummer, but only a 7 euro bummer, really.  The real problem was the next forty-five minutes we spent driving around in morning rush hour trying to get back to where we lived without going the wrong way down one way streets- a nearly impossible task, but Becca managed it.  Kudos to her.

Next we just had to buy tickets to the train over to the 5 towns, which I should probably introduce.  Cinque Terre is a set of five towns on a beautiful stretch of coast in Liguria (we’ve left Tuscany, fwiw).  They are all postcard gorgeous and probably have an interesting history that you can read about on wikipedia.  Probably.  (Actually, definitely, I’ve read it, but I’m not in a historical mood and don’t feel like creating a link.)  The highlight of them is that they’re amazingly beautiful and you can walk from one town to the next through beautiful mountain/coastal paths.

But like I said, this day was very nearly awful, and the next bummer was that the beautiful trail that connects the towns was closed.  As it had been for like three years.  In all our thorough planning, we just worried about hotels and directions and renting kayaks and getting on the train, etc.  We never bothered to see if, you know, there was still a trail!  Luckily, I guess, there was one part of the trail still open, from the fifth town to the fourth town, or vice versa, so we were able to walk that part.  And it was gorgeous- as promised.

Anyhow, we went to the fifth town, walked to the fourth town, and then it started to rain.  And it kept raining for awhile, so that was a bummer.  But we figured the best thing to do if you get wet is to get wetter, so we rented a kayak and paddled around.  Alas- no photos, on account of the wetness.  Then we hopped on a train, in our bathing suits still, to the next town, which unique among the four was up on a cliff, not by the sea.  Also unique: it was about a mile away from the train station, pretty much straight up the side of said cliff.  Hooray.

Then, long story not short but summarized a bit as I get sleepier, I put us on the wrong bus to go to the wrong place at the wrong time, which unfortunately don’t cancel each other out (-1^3 = -1).  Eventually we eat a mediocre meal in Riomaggiore, which is, as ever, totally beautiful, but the thing about beautiful places is that there’s no need for them to have good food.  But maybe I’m just being negative.  In fact, I’m sure I’m just being negative.  And I’m writing too much, so here are some pictures.

San Gimignano is known for its towers.  My cursory read of its Wikipedia page suggests that two rival families started building towers, which led to more towers, which led to more towers, until someone stepped in and was all like “Fratelli, enough with the towers, okay?”

Note- I’m pretty sure I kept taking pics of the same couple towers, over and over again.  Still, after three, any number of towers is impressive.

how many towers do you have?

First and foremost, I’d like to thank my sister for bugging me while I’m trying to remember all the cool things I did today.  So, thanks, Tracy.

So!  Today we spent WINEding around Chianti!  Get it!?!  Because the roads are all curvy and they ferment grapes!!  Whew, Sutton’s on a roll.  Point being, we drove around in Chianti.  And it was awesome.  We started off just kinda meandering, as we are wont to do, especially if I’m busy checking Twitter when I am supposed to be navigating.  JK, I don’t do that.  But we checked out some vineyards and olive..  um, farms, i guess.  I think most places that make wine also make olive oil.  Like peas and carrots or Campari and vermouth.  So that was cool.  We also nearly drove right into the middle of a little village market, then Becca had to do a (twenty-)three point turn in a crowded tiny street with about twenty people watching her.  But she nailed it and got an old guy to smile, so it was a victory.

Greve in Chianti is the name of a town.  Honestly, it’s kind of boring, but maybe we didn’t do it right.  Also, it was a Sunday so I think we didn’t get an ideal experience.  Point being, Montepulciano>>Greve.  Then we went to San Gimignano, which will get its own post momentarily.  We also finally succeeded in spending a reasonable amount of money on lunch.  (We have a bad habit, hopefully broken, of going to fan$$y restaurants for snacks and it’s something else.)  We played the guess-the-nationality game for awhile in the town square and got our minds blown by some stealth Americans.

From Saint G, we drove up to La Spezia, where we’re staying.  It’s a weird town- half of it is industrial port with the accompanying industrial ugliness, and the other half is a weird party town with pink neon lights and sunglasses at night.  Our b&b hostess is very well-dressed and always ready for a night on the town, which we appreciate.  AND we got terrible pizza for dinner- see below.

BUT I’m kinda lying!  As we were driving to La Spezia, we realized that we were really close to Pisa and we should probably drop in and see how the Pisaians do things.  So we did!  And it was awesome.  I can’t believe we nearly missed the leaningest tower in the world to save twnety minutes on a drive.  It’s very white and it’s surrounded by tourist tschotchkiolos, and it is deserving of it’s own post, which is forthcoming.