Korcula. Were I a less lazy man, I would put the little hat on the ‘c’- it’s an affricate, but not the affricate that you think it is. Well, you probably don’t think it’s an affricate, or don’t care, or like, whatever, but the point is that I am lazy and the ‘c’ should be wearing some sort of a hat.
Zadar is the cool surprisingly partying city we boated and bused into, which we then left to go to Split. So we could take a ferry to the island that needs a hat. So that’s what happened. I mentioned earlier that there was a big festival going on in split- ULTRA- and that knowledge is very important in evaluating the city. Basically, it was a terrible, terrible experience. A neat old town with the charm of Las Vegas (Side note: I hate Las Vegas and do not find it charming). It was totally totally packed with people. It’s like how I imagine those MTV spring break places are like in all the time the cameras aren’t rolling.
Here’s how much I didn’t like Split: Ever since I realized I was going to a town called Split, I had planned on taking a picture of a banana once I was there and coming up with something hilarious to say about it. When I got to Split, I was in no mood for joking. I just wanted to leave. BUT, as I found out later, the festival drew approximately 5x as many people as as usually there in the high season, and it’s usually pretty busy in the high season. So the point is that Split is probably pretty nice, but not when there’s a giant music festival.
So anyhow, enough negativity. We actually had a pretty decent time there. We got off our bus and fought through the crowds, but we successfully did all the errands we needed to do, including buying two days of groceries (peanut butter!) a new bathing suit, and. um.. money, maybe? I forget, but there was a third thing. We did it all, then we got onto a boat and went to Korcula!
The ferry to Korcula, fwiw, wasn’t the big cool party ferry I was used to, but pretty much just a floating bus:
So we took a boat, maybe an hour and change, to Korcula, where our host met us at the port. The house was a summer home for their family for years, but they decided recently to start renting it out and we were the first customers. The host was the older daughter of teh family, in her early 20s, I think, and she was pretty nervous about us liking the place and telling us all we had to know, and I think a little wary of the idea of strangers living in her family cottage. Anyhow, she was great and went with us to the house to walk us through everything.
The house was awesome. Not super elaborate, but clean and nice and with a view of the bay from the terrace. (The really great shot that sold the house to us was actually taken from the path leading away from the house, not the terrace, but we brilliantly discovered that if we moved a table from the terrace to the path, then. um.. we win.)
A little rocky beach was about a two minute walk away, which we took advantage of pretty much immediately. The water was completely full of sea urchins, so bringing our water shoes proved crucial. But the water was super duper clear and awesome and that’s pretty much that. The next day we woke up, ate some some eggs and drank some instant coffee, and then went down to the beach and proceeded to swim and sun for the entire day.
Except not quite. We were committed to spending our time there at the water, but the sky wasn’t cooperating. It was a little drizzly and cloudy but not quite cold. I spent a big chunk of time photographing the one patch of blue sky, trying to determine whether it was changing at all in size. Eventually, we gave up on it being a sunny day at the beach and just decided to swim in cloudy drizzle. Upon making this decision, the clouds parted and we were rewarded.
So once in the water, we could only float on our backs and swim in circles for so long, so we decided to swim across the bay to an island where we heard there was a church with a bell you could ring! We love ringing bells! So we made the swim, but we couldn’t find the church, so then we swam to another island, where we also couldn’t find the church. There weren’t any other islands, so we never found the church, but it was still an awesome swim. Also, we swam to two islands! For real!
Anyhow, that pretty much wrapped it up. It rained like crazy the next morning, so no more swimming, but I stood in the rain in my bathing suit, which is basically the same thing. We considered staying for an extra few days, but Dubrovnik was calling us, and for all we knew, it could be way better than a secluded cottage on a crystal clear bay. Right, that’s gonna happen.
That’s a stretch/groan of an allusion to tPB, jsyk.
Anyhow, we didn’t, you know, spend the entire time in Florence at the Uffizi. We could have. After we had decided we were all arted out for the afternoon and thought we had seen most of what we wanted to see, we still had to walk for ten minutes out of the museum, just glimpsing another 6-8 hours worth of colored oil & canvas. But we were hungry. So we ate pizza and drank peroni.
Lucca-t these photos! Like, Look at these photos- they were taken (mostly) in Lucca!
I’m falling behind, as I do, but we’re just finishing breakfast so I figured I’d post some photos (out of order, alas). Yesterday we left La Spezia and drove to Florence, stopping in Lucxca. We didn’t intend to stay long, just enough to get lunch, but it ended up being a cool city. We were remarking on how it seemed like a real city and how there was almost no tourist presence, which was odd. Then we realized we just entered town from the non-tourist side- the closer we got to the center, the more gelaterias and tschotchkerias there were until it was a veritable Ocean City. No, that’s rude. It was nothing like Ocean City.
One unexpected stop was a Comics Museum, where we saw an exhibition on WW1 comics as well as a “Myth of the West” exhibit on Western comic art in Italy. AND there was Spiderman on the outside. Also had the best gelato of the trip from the coolest looking place- all the gelato was stored in shiny copper pots. Very pretty.
We got into Florence, dropped off our “car”, and headed to our B&B, ehich was great. Picnic dinner at some park, beer with Dr. Zigler who’s in Florence in his official capacity, and that’s the ballgame!
This post has been really hard to write. Mostly because I’ve been busy and there hasn’t been successful internet connections, but also because it was just hard to write about. Because Cinque Terre is amazing, and because it was very nearly a terrible day.
It started off bad. We woke up early to move our car to some free parking spaces our b&b host recommended. When we found these spaces, they were all taken. That’s a bummer, but only a 7 euro bummer, really. The real problem was the next forty-five minutes we spent driving around in morning rush hour trying to get back to where we lived without going the wrong way down one way streets- a nearly impossible task, but Becca managed it. Kudos to her.
Next we just had to buy tickets to the train over to the 5 towns, which I should probably introduce. Cinque Terre is a set of five towns on a beautiful stretch of coast in Liguria (we’ve left Tuscany, fwiw). They are all postcard gorgeous and probably have an interesting history that you can read about on wikipedia. Probably. (Actually, definitely, I’ve read it, but I’m not in a historical mood and don’t feel like creating a link.) The highlight of them is that they’re amazingly beautiful and you can walk from one town to the next through beautiful mountain/coastal paths.
But like I said, this day was very nearly awful, and the next bummer was that the beautiful trail that connects the towns was closed. As it had been for like three years. In all our thorough planning, we just worried about hotels and directions and renting kayaks and getting on the train, etc. We never bothered to see if, you know, there was still a trail! Luckily, I guess, there was one part of the trail still open, from the fifth town to the fourth town, or vice versa, so we were able to walk that part. And it was gorgeous- as promised.
Anyhow, we went to the fifth town, walked to the fourth town, and then it started to rain. And it kept raining for awhile, so that was a bummer. But we figured the best thing to do if you get wet is to get wetter, so we rented a kayak and paddled around. Alas- no photos, on account of the wetness. Then we hopped on a train, in our bathing suits still, to the next town, which unique among the four was up on a cliff, not by the sea. Also unique: it was about a mile away from the train station, pretty much straight up the side of said cliff. Hooray.
Then, long story not short but summarized a bit as I get sleepier, I put us on the wrong bus to go to the wrong place at the wrong time, which unfortunately don’t cancel each other out (-1^3 = -1). Eventually we eat a mediocre meal in Riomaggiore, which is, as ever, totally beautiful, but the thing about beautiful places is that there’s no need for them to have good food. But maybe I’m just being negative. In fact, I’m sure I’m just being negative. And I’m writing too much, so here are some pictures.
San Gimignano is known for its towers. My cursory read of its Wikipedia page suggests that two rival families started building towers, which led to more towers, which led to more towers, until someone stepped in and was all like “Fratelli, enough with the towers, okay?”
Note- I’m pretty sure I kept taking pics of the same couple towers, over and over again. Still, after three, any number of towers is impressive.
how many towers do you have?
First and foremost, I’d like to thank my sister for bugging me while I’m trying to remember all the cool things I did today. So, thanks, Tracy.
So! Today we spent WINEding around Chianti! Get it!?! Because the roads are all curvy and they ferment grapes!! Whew, Sutton’s on a roll. Point being, we drove around in Chianti. And it was awesome. We started off just kinda meandering, as we are wont to do, especially if I’m busy checking Twitter when I am supposed to be navigating. JK, I don’t do that. But we checked out some vineyards and olive.. um, farms, i guess. I think most places that make wine also make olive oil. Like peas and carrots or Campari and vermouth. So that was cool. We also nearly drove right into the middle of a little village market, then Becca had to do a (twenty-)three point turn in a crowded tiny street with about twenty people watching her. But she nailed it and got an old guy to smile, so it was a victory.
Greve in Chianti is the name of a town. Honestly, it’s kind of boring, but maybe we didn’t do it right. Also, it was a Sunday so I think we didn’t get an ideal experience. Point being, Montepulciano>>Greve. Then we went to San Gimignano, which will get its own post momentarily. We also finally succeeded in spending a reasonable amount of money on lunch. (We have a bad habit, hopefully broken, of going to fan$$y restaurants for snacks and it’s something else.) We played the guess-the-nationality game for awhile in the town square and got our minds blown by some stealth Americans.
From Saint G, we drove up to La Spezia, where we’re staying. It’s a weird town- half of it is industrial port with the accompanying industrial ugliness, and the other half is a weird party town with pink neon lights and sunglasses at night. Our b&b hostess is very well-dressed and always ready for a night on the town, which we appreciate. AND we got terrible pizza for dinner- see below.
BUT I’m kinda lying! As we were driving to La Spezia, we realized that we were really close to Pisa and we should probably drop in and see how the Pisaians do things. So we did! And it was awesome. I can’t believe we nearly missed the leaningest tower in the world to save twnety minutes on a drive. It’s very white and it’s surrounded by tourist tschotchkiolos, and it is deserving of it’s own post, which is forthcoming.