(NB!  This post is long, rambling, and rather bathroom-focused!)

I wish I had done something more interesting today, but really the record shopping was the highlight.  The cold I mentioned yesterday has developed into a full-fledged sickness today.  My hope is that it’ll be two days developing, one day being actually sick (today), and then a day of recovery.  Point being, I only left the hostel for a couple hours today.

I walked to the harbor (sadama, I think) to buy some tickets- I wasn’t able to get them online for some reason.  On the way back, I got caught in a rain storm, so I had to wait it out in a little shopping mall-let.  The good thing about that was I got to puzzle about some pay-bathroom quandaries that I otherwise never would have considered.   Basically, I walked up to the bathroom, realized I had to pay for it, and then quickly realized I didn’t have any change.  ( .2 euros)   So I stood there, kind of in a daze.  This is not a problem I’d faced before: no money for the bathroom.  Just as I was about to come to terms with not entering the bathroom, the door opened!  Out came a prior customer.  In a moment, I wondered what the etiquette was.

It seemed to me kinda like when you put a bunch of money in a parking meter, and then you leave with a substantial amount left on the meter.  If you see someone hovering around to park, you might be inclined to get their attention and somehow communicate that there’s still plenty of time on this meter.  “Hey dude!  I may have gotten screwed into paying too much for something that should be free, but that doesn’t mean you should have to as well!”*  Of course, a lot of people have the opposite reaction: “I paid for no g-d good reason, this guy should have to, too.”  Being my first experience with a pay bathroom, I didn’t have any kind of intuition what the average person thought, and being (obviously) scared to death of bothering anyone ever in the least (especially while visiting their country!) I didn’t know whether to just slip in to the bathroom, or to continue fumbling in my pockets, trying to look like I was, in fact, a respectable paying customer.  Bear in mind, this entire time I really do have to go to the bathroom, so I only hesitate a moment longer before I enter and relieve myself.

Now, some time passes.  Remember, I’m waiting out a rain storm.  Also- I’ve been sick, which circumstance I react to by constantly guzzling water.  ALSO, I’m bored, and at a mall (!) so I’m working on my flash cards and drinking espresso.  Point being, it isn’t too terribly long until I have to use the bathroom again.  On the second encounter, there is a line of perhaps six men, all waiting outside the bathroom, all being patient for someone to either leave the facilities or for some cash-having person suffering a real emergency to pay our fee for us.  Just as I walk up, someone leaves the bathroom, and the seven of us file into the bathroom, then awkwardly wait our turns, avoiding eye contact, like at a baseball game.

So then I walk home, take a couple pictures.  On the way, I stop at an apteeka (think apothecary) to get some cold medicine, which medicine I decide upon by choosing the one with a cartoon marked with stars on areas corresponding my my discomfort.  It worked relatively well, I guess.

I spent some time talking to more Scottish people (have I mentioned them?  There’s a lot of them.) and doing flash cards.  Getting pretty comfortable with my chapter four vocab, though chapter 5 is still tricky.  (Apelsinimahl is orange juice, not apple juice.)  Then I went for another walk just to get out of the building, and almost immediately came across a record store!  With records and CDs and an indie rock section and 7″s and 10″s (well, really just one, but still) and DVDs and a helpful clerk (that was actually kinda weird.)

I tweeted earlier that I saw a Twin Shadow cd, which was neat, cause I’m at a tiny store in Estonia, and I really did think about getting it, because I somehow never got around to putting that on my iPod, and am thus rather Twin-Shadowless for the summer.  I bothered the clerk about some Estonian music, and he brought me four cds and sat me down in front of a player with headphones.  As I’m skipping through the third cd, he brings me a stack of another five!  I dutifully listened bits and pieces of all of them (many of which were comps, so I’m sure I missed something good) before settling on Ans. Andur (wikipedia link only good in Eesti and, oddly, Portuguese) and a band called, ick, Dallas (kind of un-googleable, sorta, kinda).  The Ans. Andur case is particularly cool looking- check out the picture.  There seems to be one big-deal indie label in town (Estonia’s Flying Nun, perhaps?)  called SekSound, though it very well could be the name of a coffeeshop or the Estonian wing of EMI.  Anyhow, reviews forthcoming…  perhaps.

Did laundry.

Now preparing for bed.  Headed to Haapsula tomorrow.  Who know’s what will await us there?!?!

*I actually think paying for parking in urban areas is certainly reasonable and probably underpriced.


Another rainy day, but now with the added bonus of having a cold! KIND OF A BUMMER!

That’s okay though, because, though I’ve got a mild cold and I am a total baby about being under the weather, I’m not sick enough to stop me from studying. I spent a solid five hours at the library today, which I hope to replicate tomorrow. Afterwards, I did flash cards for a few hours, and I made my plans for the next several days.  Basically, I don’t want to spend too much time in Tallinn now, because I’ll be here for almost all of July.  So, Wednesday I am going to go to Haapsalu, which is out west, and spend the day there and sleep in a hostel that claims to have a bowling alley!  We’ll see!

Thursday I’ll go to Parnu, where I’m not really sure what to expect, and then finally on Friday I’ll go to Tartu, which is kind of where I’ve been wanting to be all along.  I’ve heard a bunch of good things about it, and it’s the real university town here in Estonia.  Should be a good time.  I will probably stay in Tartu until Mr. Sutton gets here next week, but maybe I’ll keep on trucking and try to check out another city.  We will see.

No photos today: all I did was blow my nose and practice saying different kinds of pies.  Like meat pies (lihapirukad), curd pies (kohupiimapirukad), and, most deliciously, mushroom pies (seenepirukad).  Not a lot of opportunities to take photos.  I’m going to scope out hotels tomorrow, so maybe there will be time then.  I’ve actually kind have been avoiding seeing too much of Old Town Tallinn until my dad gets here, cause I figure we’ll get out share then.  But maybe I’ll have to see it tomorrow anyways.

View Next Few Days in a larger map

Today’s weather was a little bit more what I expected from Tallinn. Up until today, the weather had always been awesome at least for awhile every day, but today when I woke up it was raining and it hasn’t stopped. In a way, it was a good thing, as I was able to get a fair amount of flash-carding and grammarizing in, but not much blog-worthy.
I did go out to breakfast and a pancake place. There’s a picture of it. Pancakes here aren’t the dessert-for-breakfast variety we’re accustomed to, but more like crepes. Thick like pancakes, but otherwise like crepes. It was great! And only like 3 euros or something, and I left stuffed.
One weird thing here is that the coffee is expensive. Everything else is really nicely priced, but you can’t get coffee for less than two euros, and that’s not for a Starbies-approved six gallon vat, but just a simple cup of coffee. It’s not the worst thing in the world, but it’s up there.
I also checked out an Eastern Market/Megamall type place run by and seemingly only patronized by Russians. It was raining pretty steadily at that point, so I didn’t pause to take any photos. My favorite part was the little stand selling granite headstones, in case you need to pick one up along with your vegetables and knock-off purse.
Last note- check out the NB sign. I wasn’t familiar with this abbreviation before a couple weeks ago when I first saw one in an e-mail from one of the Estonian schools. Then it popped up in a paper I was reading, then it was used rather generously in my Estonian texts, the non-Estonian book I’m reading now uses it extensively, AND there’s NB signs everywhere. It’s like fate really wants me to make a good note of it.

  • On my way to a train to a bus to a plane to a bus to a plane to a plane to a bus to my hostel! #
  • So far I've3 seen two products endorsed by Jordan Catalano. What gives? #
  • @joemylile Come on! What's more American than singing about fighting? #
  • I missed Wu-Tang in Tallinn by a week? Seriously? #
  • My flashcards! Why I'm sharing, I don't know. http://t.co/RmOh1Az #
  • When it's sunny until midnight, going to a bar at 2 am doesn't seem like a terrible idea. It's a terrible idea. #
  • @joemylile Tallinn, Estonia. http://t.co/kkY4jwu #
  • Apparently I didn't learn my lesson. Oh well- when in Rome… http://t.co/JcNTbht #
  • Er… when in Tallinn. #
  • This Is A Story About A Bald Eagle Dropping A Deer On Power Lines In Montana [Video] http://bit.ly/iLbi52 #

  • On my way to a train to a bus to a plane to a bus to a plane to a plane to a bus to my hostel! #
  • So far I've3 seen two products endorsed by Jordan Catalano. What gives? #
  • @joemylile Come on! What's more American than singing about fighting? #
  • I missed Wu-Tang in Tallinn by a week? Seriously? #
  • My flashcards! Why I'm sharing, I don't know. http://t.co/RmOh1Az #
  • When it's sunny until midnight, going to a bar at 2 am doesn't seem like a terrible idea. It's a terrible idea. #
  • @joemylile Tallinn, Estonia. http://t.co/kkY4jwu #
  • Apparently I didn't learn my lesson. Oh well- when in Rome… http://t.co/JcNTbht #
  • Er… when in Tallinn. #
  • This Is A Story About A Bald Eagle Dropping A Deer On Power Lines In Montana [Video] http://bit.ly/iLbi52 #

  • On my way to a train to a bus to a plane to a bus to a plane to a plane to a bus to my hostel! #
  • So far I've3 seen two products endorsed by Jordan Catalano. What gives? #
  • @joemylile Come on! What's more American than singing about fighting? #
  • I missed Wu-Tang in Tallinn by a week? Seriously? #
  • My flashcards! Why I'm sharing, I don't know. http://t.co/RmOh1Az #
  • When it's sunny until midnight, going to a bar at 2 am doesn't seem like a terrible idea. It's a terrible idea. #
  • @joemylile Tallinn, Estonia. http://t.co/kkY4jwu #
  • Apparently I didn't learn my lesson. Oh well- when in Rome… http://t.co/JcNTbht #
  • Er… when in Tallinn. #
  • This Is A Story About A Bald Eagle Dropping A Deer On Power Lines In Montana [Video] http://bit.ly/iLbi52 #

Earlier today I alluded to my first nightlife experience in Estonia.  Yike.  As a result of that night, I had something of a slow day, and may have not woken up until well after noon.  Anyhow,  Estonian bars.  I went to two, so it’s probaly not really that representative, but maybe it is?  Yeah.  What about Estonian bars?

They love flaming shots.  Seriously, they light every shot on fire.  And they don’t just have shots of whiskey or tequila, they’re these elaborate concoctions that involve four or five different things.  Also crazy: they drink their shots out of straws.  Seriously.  It’s about the silliest thing I’d ever seen.  Like, they line up the shots, light them on fire, and then everyone grabs a straw.  I just picked one up and drank it like an American (aka like it’s supposed to be drank!) and everyone got angry with me.  Also, they sell them in sets of five, and the glasses come in these cute little trays.  Anyhow, it was weird.  I didn’t actually drink that much cause I didn’t want today to go to waste.  Unfortunately, the fact that I left at 2am pretty much already meant today was going to be less than productive.  Silly silly.

So how unproductive was today?  I did flash cards for a couple hours, so that was nice, and I took a nice walk, but for some  really silly reason I decided to go see a movie.  Seriously, I never see movies, but I was standing in front of a theater right as the new X-Men movie was starting, and before I knew it I was inside with a large Pepsi, sitting in my assigned seat.  Yeah, they assign seats.

Last bit- there’s a music festival thing going on this weekend, and the city has posters for it everywhere.  Filter and PiL are the only bands I’ve heard of (incidentally, Filter came up on my iPod the other day.  What a mind-melting coincidence!!!).  Some of the bands have pretty cool names, though I won’t comment on which ones in particular caught my attention.

Yo dudes.  Another good day! I woke up a little late, but I was up a lot later than I planned, so it’s okay.  I was just falling alseep when a very chatty Australian came in.  Not complaining, we had a very nice chat, just kinda postponed bed time awhile.  Did get up by 9:30 though and went for a run again.  Two for two!  Maybe I take tomorrow off.  Anyhow, first thing I went to this little shack where they book bike tours.  They made it seem like they sell  out all the time, so I went there first thing!  I didn’t want to miss my chance!  OF course, only one other person had signed up, so it wasn’t quite necessary.

The tour didn’t leave until four, so I went to the Tallinn University library to study.  It’s not impossible, but kinda hard and totally distracting to try to work at the hostel.  I went and asked the guys at the front desk if I could study there, and after some discussion they let me, but told me I’d have to pay.  I was a little concerned about that, until they told me the fee to use the library was .32 euros.  Basically, I rented a desk for four hours for fifty cents.  I can deal with that.

Interesting thing I discovered about Tallinn University is that up until like five years ago, it didn’t exist.  There were several smaller universities around town, and around 2005 or so, they decided to all join forces and call themselves Tallinn University.  Quite different from University of Tartu, which was founded by the Swedish king Gustavus Adolphus in like 1630 something.

Around 3:30 I went and got lunch and a better Estonian dictionary, and took a picture of a store:

We usually shy away from admitting it...

Then I went on the bike tour.  Now some photos.

Observations:

  • The Soviets didn’t have a lot of respect for graves apparently.  When they built to one monument with the hands, it was already a graveyard.  They moved all the headstones, but according to the guide, they didn’t bother with moving the bodies.
  • The guy whose name I photos is famous for, among other things, writing the definitive version of some Estonian folktale, which tells the story of the “great^n-grandfather” of all Estonians, who was apparently also a murderous drunk.
  • The Lenin with wings is actually a mermaid, commemorating a boat that sank off the coast.  During Soviet times, they removed the cross from her hands, and said the empty weird hand was actually pointing to  where the ship sank.  The guide told us she once overheard a child ask an old lady what it was, and the lady replied it was Lenin with wings.  “The first time Lenin was mistaken for an angel.”
  • Estonians are  not very stoked about their time under Soviet rule.  They don’t seem to terribly mind previous Russian or Swedish rule, but they’re still pissed about the commies.
  • Nearly all the monuments and sculptures we saw were commemorating a tragedy, not a victory or something else nice.  Also, I heard two other stories about graves being missing or bodies misplaced during construction of the various memorials.
  • It’s raining now, and time to study vocab.  Oh!  There’s also a video.

Day Two partially over…  Wanted to keep the momentum up while I still can.  Woke up this morning around eight after getting a good nights sleep.  I think I’m pretty much comfortably in the time zone, but I hear it’s harder going the other way?  We’ll see.

I went for a jog around this cool park this morning (another habit I’m trying to force myself to have), and, as planned, got lost on the way back.  This was planned cause I knew I’d only want to run a couple miles, but the time I spent trying to reorient myself nearly doubled the original run.  Way to plan!

Came back to the hostel and studied for three hours, then I went a wanderin’.  I waited awhile for a tram to take me to the museum, during which wait I had my first conversation.  It went something like this:

Estonian Woman: blahblahblahblahblah kolm blahblahblahblah

Me: shrug

Pretty cool!  I finally got on the tram, where I again couldn’t figure out how to pay, so I didn’t.  I went to some cool park and wandered, then found the museum.  The big art museum is beautiful, and the collection was pretty cool.  There was a contemporary exhibit that was uniformly awesome, especially one installation.  I filmed it, so that’s something.   I walked home rather than do the train, I figured it wouldn’t be that far.  It wasn’t.  Now I’m home, having dinner, after which I’m going to try to do another two hours.  (Five hours really doesn’t seem like much, but day after day?  I’m not sure.  We’ll tweak the plan as we go along.)  so..  yeah.

The highlights of the museum were a room full of weird busts, some of which talked, and this water fountain thing (see pictures) that spelled out words in water droplets, taken from some sort of internet news feed.  It’s like rain from a word cloud.

Observations:

  • The local beer tastes like the first time you ever tasted beer.  Whether that’s a good thing…
  • There were a ton of portraits of Stalin in their Soviet-era exhibit.  Being an American, I have a hard time looking at them and not assuming they have some satirical subtext, but we all know how artists are all pinkos.
  • The tram also smells.
  • There really are a lot of Russians here.  There’s no sh- or ch- or dj- sounds in Estonian, so those are the giveaway.
  • Credit cards here are different.  While mine does work here, the cashiers never know what to do with it.  European cards are just inserted into a customer-facing reader and held there.  The magnetic stripe kinds like we have have to be done on the register by the cashier.  Anyhow, nobody every told me this.
  • The weather, by the way, is phenomenal.  Low 70s, crystal clear.  I hope this holds.
  • Terrible music everywhere.  So I guess it’s more or less like the States.

So, after a train, a bus, a plane, a bus, a plane, a plane, and a bus, I have arrived in Tallinn.

It was terrible! No, that’s not true, it was totally fine, just long. I didn’t sleep much on the way to London, and I had some funny trouble getting from Heathrow to Gatwick. (My bus didn’t come for like two hours, so I officially switched my ticket to a later bus. Minutes later, my original bus arrived and the newly booked bus was another hour late! All’s well that ends well, though, right?)

The flight to Riga was four hours, and I got to experience what it’s like to sit next to some true Europeans (read: terrible BO), but I was so tired that I was able to sleep most of the way there. The airport in Riga was nice, and after a short wait and a half hour flight, I was in Tallinn. I am in Tallinn, rather. The bus getting from the airport was a little confusing, just because they didn’t seem to require that I pay. I kept waiting for someone else to pay so I could follow their lead, but apparently it was free. That was nice.

I was a little (a lot) put off by the maximal hippieness of the hostel I’m staying at, but the guy who showed me around was nice, and the place is clean (if you don’t count that it smells like… Europeans.) Anyhow, that’s all!

Some observations:

  • English people totally look like English people.  It’s weird.
  • My bus driver from Heathrow to Gatwick was listening to Elvis Costello.
  • At Gatwick, they don’t announce what gate your plane is at until it’s time to board.  Everyone just wanders around this central area waiting.
  • Checking bags is free!  Way to go, AirBaltic!
  • Europeans LOVE Ed Hardy.
  • I didn’t expect to see obviously planned neighborhoods with fake water features in Estonia, but I saw a ton from the plane.
  • Also saw a ton of backyard greenhouses, so that was pretty cool.
  • The first Estonian word I understood was aitah ‘thanks’.  Practically fluent!